sign of the apocalaypse

11/10/11

According to the pharmacist at Bigelow (the countries oldest apothecary) there is a nationwide shortage of adderall.

back into travellers checques

11/8/11

One of the major frustrations during the walkabout was international banking and the battle to  access our own money.  Having learned from a prior jaunt to tanzania that lords visa and master do not like random charges from east africa, we were very responsible and alerted our  banks and credit peeps that we would be traveling for several months and provided our itinerary.  Nonetheless, things came to screeching halt in Bodrum turkey.  Admittedly, we did each lose a bank card early on, but we were able to contact the right folks and cancel the plastic.  However, at some point, the combination of lost cards, the one way ticket, the cash advances, the absence of typical tourist financial activity became too much, and the money matrix shut us down. "it's for your own security," the money matrix said.  We said "how secure can we be if we have no money for food and lodging?" Then our phone card probably ran out of Euros.  We ripped through our US dollar cash reserves.

5 worst meals

10/31/11

meal after unsuccessful search for tokat kebab.  Tokat is famous for a kabob which features alternating slices of lamb, eggplant, onion, tomato and the whole thing is studded with garlic. The tower of power spins in front of the fire and the juices from all items intermingle and baste.  We spent several hours in search of this culinary golden fleece.  We tried kabob store after kabob store without success.  Finally, starving, we found ourselves in that paralyzed brain cramp of crum.  Barely getting one foot in front of another we looked up and saw people eating and drinking on a balcony.  It ended up being a harshly lit cafeteria with plastic menus and big color pictures of bad overpriced entrees.  Live to fight another day.

butter tea.  This Himalayan staple is reportedly a tonic that has a lot of vitamins.  However it is made from rancid butter and may be one of those things that one needs to "acquire a taste for."  Let me be more specific--RANCID!

chili and cheese again.  The national dish of Bhutan is chili and cheese.  Bhutan is in a valley surrounded by the Himalayas, and there is no salt occurring in Bhutan.  So historically and currently, chili is used a preservative and to kill bacteria.  Spicy chillies cooked with cheese.  It's actually pretty tasty but after fourteen straight meals...you get the picture

no meal on train.  Our first overnight train ride found us unprepared.  Twenty four hours from Istanbul to Bucharest.  I think we figured that we were going to get fed.  But no.  Twelve hours in and we were rifling through all our bags in search of crumbs.  We located a tin of anchovies (lesvos), a tin of preserved figs (Ikaria) and a jar of honey (also Ikaria).  Our sigh of relief did not last long.  The anchovies had disintegrated to salty hair and the preserved figs tasted like bad spiced liquid fruitcake.  Honey can only get you so far.

in search of xo sauce

nom wah's turnip cake in xo sauce did not live up to expectations, but the other dim sum offerings, red leather banquets and rekindled childhood memories made the trip worthwhile.  When I was a kid that little nook of doyers street WAS chinatown.  nom wah was THE spot for weekend tea lunch.  And I remember eating subgum wonton and crab with ginger and scallions next door (and down a steep flight of stairs) at Wo Kee when i was barely out of diapers.  Randy was the manager and he smuggled me fortune cookies.  More recently, it has been a Vietnamese restaurant (and a good one) for over thirty years.

Nom Wah, reportedly chinatown's oldest dim sum parlor, is back on my radar. 

the annual

10/17/2011

fifty plus years of four families congregating in new england to age gracefully and celebrate the fall foliage.  Growing exponentially out of a weekend camping trip by four law school buddies (one of whom is my father) into a multi-generational frenzy of touch football, hiking, wine, apples, babies, photos and philosophizing.  The crowd has gradually grown to include girlfriends, wives, children, death, divorce and even more children.

homeward bound

2/23/2011
mysteres mekong

Found this entry while doing the top ten meals.  It was in drafts.  Better late than never.  Published on 10/19/11.

last bit of culture for myself and the twins.  Royal Palace.  Silver floors and emerald buddha.  We find ourselves a little jaded (ouch).  Jill soldiers on solo heading for the National Museum and the Russian Market.

continued from the airport at phnom penh on 2/24.

spent the rest of yesterday at the pool reading Snow and hanging with the twins.  Although they may have been bored at times over the last six months it is amazing how many minute details they remember.  Names of cities, entrees on menus, taxi rides, hotel room toilets, water color, pool temperature, 

top ten walkabout meals

1. First greek salad in Athens.  It may have been a tourist trap a few blocks from our first hotel.  The place definitely had the fan misting things to cool things down and the waiters spoke excellent English.  But tomatoes, olives, lettuce, feta cheese, cucumbers and onions never tasted so good.  Following our friend Quinn's advice, I don't think there were a lot of days in Greece where we did not have the namesake salad.  That first one was the one that started it all.

2.  Fried pig in romania.  One never knows when one's world is gonna get rocked.  Completely unexpectedly it happened in the boonies in Romania (what was once Hungary) some five kms from where my great grandfather Salamon Simon may have hailed from.   The main draw was the proximity to our Hungarian roots and the opportunity to sleep in some crazed Saxon drawer beds.  What is etched in our stomachs is the epic chow prepared by the owner of the home we were staying in.   The meal redefined the terms "farm to table," "barnyard" and "terroir".  Vegetable soup, carrot risotto, cole slaw, and some fried pork ribs that were scandalous.  Topped off by some lingonberry crepe.  Drinking pink wine and some eau de vie that spoke of the back yard (in the most complimentary way).

3.  kabob in sanliurfa.  This no brainer screamed out to us as we walked along the main drag looking for the bazaar (which we never found).  The piles of fresh mint, cilantro, onion, basil and lime sections caught our eye.  The outdoor counter was seemingly at knee level, and we sat in a row with our backs facing the sidewalk.  Chunks of tasty grilled meat, a stack of hot flat bread, the above mentioned garnishes along with a few other unidentifiable liquid condiments and you can finish this sentence.  Afterwards we topped things off with some pistachio baklava and a family viewing of Spinal Tap.  Heaven.

4.  in the tent in bhutan. There is something about eating at high altitude.  The elevation makes you hungrier and the food tastes better.  11,000 feet up in Bhutan was no exception to the rule.  Amongst chortens, prayer flags and yaks drifting around, we snuggled in the mess tent for paneer curry, cucumber salad, rice, broccoli with ginger, and finished up with killer bread pudding done on the camp stove with a special bhutanese bain marie maneuver.

5.  morning glory shoots in oyster sauce.  We ate this one dollar dish nearly every day we were in cambodia.  Have had similar dishes in chinatown featuring pea shoots.  But this was the real deal.  Especially the night we ate it at at plastic tables/chairs on the sidewalk in siem reap after a day of watting. The cooking occurred in woks on glorified camp stoves seven feet from your ears,  the lights were strung up on a fence, and the cash register was a cookie tin.  When the lights went out and the music went off, we continued eating morning glory shoots, truly giant prawns and drinking beer along with everybody else.

6.  fondue in switzerland.  Running late and underestimating the travel time, we ended up taking a desperation cab ride (quel horreur) to get to the Geneva classic, Cafe du Soleil.  We rushed out of the cab, into the restaurant and despite some odd stares promptly found our way to a table.  When somebody finally came over to see us, it became apparent that our reservation was at the restaurant next door.  After sheepishly bailing, we found ourselves at our true destination talking to someone who informed us that there was no reservation for hanson but there was one for benson so some sort of administrative switch was made and the situation was regularized.  All very confusing, but culminating successfully with assiette viandes sechees, a flowery white, salade paysanne, and the best fondue i have ever had which magically maintained a perfect consistency throughout the meal.  Some secret ingredient is clearly involved (not nutmeg).

7.  sardines in greece at the unesco world heritage site (molyvos)? could be mytilini. on the dock.  Menu in greek.  Stuffed squash blossoms with local cheese.  We asked the guy to bring us what he liked.  Sardines grilled right out of the ocean. We went back the next night.  great success!

8.  the grill your own meat spot just outside of Trabzon.  We had intended to sleep In Trabzon, but spent an hour driving around trying to find the center of town.  There are no street signs in Turkey except for the tiniest alleys.  Verbal directions usually include various contradictory suggestions and amazingly kooky estimations of distances.  After many frustrating forays, Jill decided to abandon the Trabzon plan.  We stopped at what looked like a restaurant, and walked in to find a butcher shop.  Smelling grilled meat from the backyard we headed back there and noted some tables and grills.  Nobody paid much attention to us as we moseyed about trying to suss things out.  No menus anywhere. We were hungry and clueless so we attempted to leave and find something less intimidating.  On the way out people started giving us an extensive explanation of the scenario in rapid fire Turkish.  Jill and the kids went next door to the market.  I finally figured things out with a lot of sign language.  Go to the meat counter tell the guy how many koftas (meat patties) you want, he weighs them and then they grill them for you tableside.  Sinfully good.  Even Ben was happy.

9.  pasta with saffron at enzo's.  Proving that good friends, good wine, and good spirits can make a winner.  We spent a bunch of time at Enzo's house in Geneva (including some time when he and his family were in Italy).  Prior to leaving for his folks' house, Enzo and Monica prepared a simple pasta dish that spoke volumes (saffron, marscapone, nutmeg, one egg, grated parm, white pepper.)  We had the good fortune to follow up the entree with macaroons and finestkind grappa.  Good sleep.

10.  peking duck.  Got turned around in residential Bejing.  Followed the international sign for Peking Duck.  Ate Peking duck.  i love Peking duck. Game over.

restaurant in tokaj

making balanchine proud

10/3/11

Wobbling around on my ankle after a bunch of days on concrete.  The surgery is beginning to look like the only option. And now, out of left field, I have plantar fasciitis in the other heel to make me whine even more. Enough.

So Clare will be in the Nutcracker.  Cast B.  She is in the party scene and is an angel (doh!).  Rehearsals started yesterday.  She will be in twenty four performances.  This is gonna be kooky.  Lots of logistics and the need for bombproof buns.

I have been going to the Nutcracker every year for as long as I can remember.  The ballet has  pirouetted weirdly through my life.  Balanchine lived at 27 w 67 for many years up until he died.  When the elevator men went on strike, he took his turn driving the elevator and sorting the mail. Patricia McBride and Jean Pierre-Bonfous lived there as well.  My parents were friends with them all and we saw them socially from time to time.  Pretty cool when your neighbor is pinching your cheek one day, and the next you are watching her rock the Sugar Plum Fairy role.

My first elementary school crush was Clara in the NYCB Nutcracker and was featured in a

book.  I later took her to our senior prom.  Weird.

the midnight swim

september 19th, 2011

We took a meeting with Tall Paul.  He is convinced that the swampert2000 blog is the basis of a book.  Can't say that he is the only one with this idea.  A lot of folks who read the blog felt that it was a springboard to something.  I don't really get it but i like idea of keeping the blog alive and the writing is fun.  One of my first assignments is to flesh out the story of the midnight swim.

We were on Samos tucked into a beautiful little corner of coast, just past a slightly sleepy beach town with bars, markets, restaurants and Greek Salad.

Ensconced in a nice pension. 2 bedrooms, a little deck over the water, and a steep five minute path featuring loose scree that headed down to an isolated sandy beach with tidal pools and supreme snorkeling.  We made friends with a big black cat named Obama who had a brood of mistresses with whom he rolled around in the sun.

Despite the idillic setting.  The critters were mumbling.  No TV, no internet, and the family was still adjusting to life on the road.  Sun burns and the homeschooling blues were building.  I was beginning to hear things like "we miss our friends," "you guys are the worst teachers that we've ever had," and the always devastating "I'm bored!"

One of my featured parenting techniques is one I call "Keep em Guessing."  I developed this one doing therapy with court mandated PINS kids.  If you tried the same old shit they would just roll their eyes turn up the headphones and try to make u squirm.  My go to move  was to explain that the therapy time was "their" time and the moment they let me know that they were interested in interacting in a therapeutic way I was ready to go.  However if it was going to be about their head phones and teeth sucking than i was going to catch up on my progress notes and listen to some of the old skoolers that I favored like Heavy D and the Boys.  More often than not, the therapy session picked up momentum.

Although Ben and Clare have not yet joined the Crips or Bloods, they certainly are a formidable gang.  I needed to go to my "go to" move and keep em guessing.
A midnight swim seemed like a promising option.  An unpredictable element. The toughest part was keeping myself awake.

I roused the critters, tried unsuccessfully to rouse jill, grabbed a flashlight and some towels and led a forced march down the steep path to the beach. The twins were exhausted, excited and somewhat freaked out by the sudden urgency in my agenda.  With the flashlight off, there was no ambient light and the stars were dripping all over the sky.  We had a quick chat about the milky way and then I led a speed charge into the Aegean.  The water was warm and buoyant.  We floated on our backs, found cassiopeia and splashed around.  Towels, huge smiles, a brief photo session and back to bed.  We continued to be the worst teachers of all time, but we did not hear "we're bored!" for at least another week.

gloucestermen edition

8/25/11

randy silvey coming in from seattle today for all*T festivities.  He has earned it.  Another fpa coop title.  Meanwhile we've got Irene baring down at us. This afternoon definitely looks like a thunderstorm jam. 

El Barrio

August 19th, 2011

What the well dressed social work consultant wears to work on Fridays in August: Hawaiian shirt, Levis, Vans.

You know you are in El Barrio when:

• DVDs on the street cost one dollar (I picked up Monty Python and the Holy Grail and The Adventures of Baron Munchausen.)
• The $1.25 9am tamale from the lady on the corner of 103 and Lex is one of the best breakfasts ever. Pictured above.
• The 22oz can of Coors costs $1.35 and the 22oz can of Coors Light costs $2.00.
• The Chinese lady behind the counter at New Delicious speaks good Spanish
• Everybody and their mother is wearing a Harlem RBI t-shirt.

crema

August 18th, 2011

The plush consultancy is winding down and I have too much time on my hands.  One enlightening aspect of being at this site in "el barrio" is the chance to be in earshot of the foster care visits.  It's hard to tell what is going on but but there is a fraught vibe that reminds me that children should remain in their homes unless they are in immediate danger.  The trauma of separation on everybody involved is palpable.

Jill rescued a microcimbali espresso machine from my folks' house.  This thing is way old skool with the big pull down handle.  She has pulled a couple of good shots already.  When I left this morning she was descaling and mumbling about mineral deposits.  We will soon be on the quest for the perfect crema.

freestyle

August 17th, 2011

How cool is it that three days after the fpa worlds is over one can already see many of the winning routines on facebook or youtube.  When I was learning to jam, i would wait months to get my hands on a copy of a discovering the world catalogue that included tournament results and maybe a short write up and a picture or two (now what exactly is Jim Schmall's hand placement in relation to his leg there?). Now i get upset if the video feed is slow or jumpy or if the dude filming spaced for a second.

Also the worlds were in Praha! I went to worlds events in Florida, Seattle, San Diego, Santa Cruz, NYC, Ft. Collins.  These places are nice, but Praha is WORLDLY.  Gambrinus!

The combined age of the winners of Open appears to be 48.  My combined age also appears to be 48.  I used to think that to win an event you had to be at least 48.  The wheel is turning.

Congrats to Marco, Claudio, Lisa, Mary, Randy, Dave and Matt!

one year anniversary

August 16th, 2011

pretty much exactly one year ago the hansonsimonfamilysingers were touching down in athens, greece.  Nobody really knows how close we came to athens, georgia.  It was about 100 degrees.  I don't remember the name of the hotel but the location was great.  At 100 euros a night it was also one of the more expensive lodging arrangements for the trip.  As the first major sightseeing event of the trip, the Acropolis did not disappoint. 

It's a little odd looking back at the trip today as we struggle to find work, pay the rent, and organize the appointment.  In Athens there was that electric feeling of freedom and the possibility that we might just spin off the planet. 

beer can chicken

an excellent day to consult
8/15/2011

Back in consulting mode at EGSFC IMP.  It is a fine day to consult. Somewhat cool, gray and very damp.  Spent a great deal of the last week in the hammonck looking up at Skytop and the gunks.  Found a hidden stash of Spenser novels that I had never read.  Too bad Robert Parker is no longer.  He had those characters down pat. Spenser and Hawk join Travis McGee and Meyer, Batman and Robin and the Lone Ranger and Tonto as some of the greatest bad guy fighting duos of all time.

I think my consecutive day grilling streak ended with Uggla's consecutive game hitting streak.  Beer can chicken never disappoints.  Rub bird with olive oil, salt. lemon pepper. Drink half can of bud, place bird on beer can, put drip pan under bird, spread hot goals around the drip pan. Cover.  Retreat to hammock for one hour with suitable libation.  Uncover. S'nice.

things are gonna get worse

August 1, 2011

The wife says "I don't wanna be pessimistic but, things are gonna get worse."  Her general take on the world financial vibe has been spot on.  But I was not ready for some sketchy, scruffy dude on the 3 train to lick his lips and fire up his crack pipe in a pretty full car at 11pm last night.  That move has  not been in favor in two decades.  The thing about crack heads is that nobody wants to engage them because they are on the kooky unpredictable side.  So nobody says anything.

first bass

july 29, 2011

caught my first striper a few nights ago out near the Galls at marker 2 in nantucket.  Not a keeper but a beautiful fish in the moonlight nonetheless.  Sweet stars and a the sound of the drag getting pulled. YES!

consulting

July 7th 2011

Hoyt street Brooklyn.  Consulting for Edwin Gould.  Reading cases.  Looking at length of service, trends, making recommendations.  Life is a good.  There is even a unique store one block away.  Still looking for that elusive child welfare policy job.  The wife and kids are in DC hanging with Aunt Joan and HH DL.  I am playing frisbee and icing my ankle.

time flies

june 7th, 2011

the twins turn nine today.  Ben is getting a basketball and clare is picking out some new sneakers.  How did we get here?

don't know where else to brag

may 25, 2011

our stumpy corgi, clovis, has burgeoned into an accomplished frisbee dog.  I have done almost nothing.  I take her to the dog park. flip a fastback.  she runs/jumps and gets it.  Most of the time she brings it back. Repeat as necessary.  How crazy is this.  I just figured that it would take training and practice.

watching the world go by

May 12th, 2011

The last couple of mornings clovis and I have perched on the sunny bench outside the local coffee joint on 119th and Lenox.  i drink java, Clovis eats muffin crumbs and we watch the world go by.  Harlem has changed since I taught school near here at the height of the crack craze.  That deserted, jittery, where is 5-0 feeling is gone.  Replaced by Italian folks with maps looking for chicken and waffles.

After traveling to many places I can safely say that NYC is truly different.  Geneva, Vienna, Budapest, Beijing, Athens, Istanbul, Ulan Bator are all amazing.  But lenox and 119th is really a place where can watch the world go by during the time it takes to drink a large coffee.  Every language, every hairstyle, every shape, every color, every day.

people are still checking it out

May 2, 2011

Pretty cool that folks are still looking at the swampert blog even though I have not posted anything in a month.  The job search is nowhere near as exciting as the search for self, family and adventure.  However, I have had a chance to do some fun re-connecting and shmoozing with past supervisors/peers/ and potential allies.

Meanwhile we are almost fully ensconced in 4 bedrooms in Harlem.  Clare has already lost her student metrocard and the house is full of scholastic testing jitters.  Clovis seems a little down (probably missing Sherman, Polly and Dave) and somewhat confused by the aggressive posturing and smack talk by all the pit bulls in the Morris Park dog run.

This is the first neighborhood I have lived in where the coconut icy guy is a daily presence.  And even if I have to pay the "gringo price", how bad can things really be.

The artiste in residence has worked with a photo developer friend to enlarge, print and frame some of the best shots from the trip.  They are gorgeous and they are for sale (insert plug here.)

peace

real life

3/5/2011
nyc

real life.  too kooky not to write.  Maybe it's just blog withdrawal.  Yesterday I found myself at an interview while carrying my kids' poops in vials to bring to the doc for testing (Benjamin did lose 17 pounds while growing an inch). I knew I was supposed to bring a resume.  The poop is a new one.

Anyway at least Ben has a bestselling diet book in his future. 

searching

2/22/2011

in a taxi somewhere between siem reap and phnom penh.

Ben is suffering from EXD (excessive temple disorder).  i may have a touch of it myself. Everybody is a little on edge.  Methinks it is sinking in that we are going home.  No home.  no jobs.  kjds worried about standardized tests and lunchbox coolness factor.

 Had dinner last night with a family from England. Kids aged 8, 5, and 1.  Mom is an infectious disease researcher associated with oxford university.  Dad is a carpenter.  Living in Laos and Cambodia for last 4 years.  kids spent most of the time catching frogs.  Saw my favorite wat.  

I feel that i am supposed to be coming up with some deep conclusions.  Some boiled down essence of truth from six and a half months on the road.  so of course i got nada for u. So out of the mouths of babes...

me: "tell me a few things that u learned on the trip."

Ben:

"i'm good at skiing."

"i learned how to do archery."

"Before, I didn't know that Islam is a religion."

"i learned that I prefer to have a reservation at a hotel instead of just showing up."

Clare:

"i learned how to weave."

"lichtenstein is a very tiny country that people forget about"

"i didn't know that Islamic people didn't eat pork."

"i learned that the caryatid porch ladies were fake and the real ones are in the acropolis museum."

"Beijing does not have dim sum"

'i learned how to use a compass."

somewhere in the above is what we are all looking for.

aforementioned ox-cart

2/20/2011
siem reap

early wake up call.  Pile into tuk-tuk.  Head out of town to a lake where folks live and work on the water.  Floating pigstys and chicken coops.  Lots of hardworking fisherman who throw small nets.  Stopped at a floating restaurant/shop for lunch.  Big hit as there were crocodiles and snakes on display.  Later we nabbed a quick ride on the aforementioned ox-cart.  Then off to the silk farm to watch worms eat mulberry leaves and silk being spun from cocoons.

aforementioned ox-cart

clare adjusts ben's tie

clare with khmer frog

extra crusty

goofy or regular?

game of marbles at wat

good look

house on water

veggie boat

sunset on pub street

vaguely looks like joe's bike

wat polanka

Later we had that great asian dinner where u sit outside at plastic tables and you order stuff and it gets thrown on the grill of the sidewalk kitchen.  Giant prawns, spare ribs, sauteed morning glory leaves with beef and oyster sauce.  The cash register is a cookie tin.  The electricity goes out, nobody bats an eye.  No designer outfitted waitron coming to your table saying that they are Richard and will be your server for the evening and blithering about which farm the turnips came from. 

rest day

mysteres d'angkhor
siem reap
2/18/2011

Rest day.  good coffee followed by pool, reading, noodles, beer, pool, and nap.  sad to leave bhutan but happy to be under the coconuts once again.  Also happy to have spent the 880$ on bangkok air and not have to deal with artillery shells and the overland bus trip "from hell."

rest day over.  followed by a furious round of watting.  these things were built in the 11th century and are featured in movies in the 21st century.  does "lasting style" sound about right?  Gotta love tooling around on elephants and tuk-tuks.  sticking straws into coconuts is an underrated pleasure. 

There are hundreds of 8 year olds selling stuff at the temples.  Today i turned the tables.  A couple of young girls were working me real hard trying to sell beaded bracelets.  I was getting a pretty good rhythm with the "no thanks," when they noticed i had a few silly bands on my wrist (emergency stash).  When they flashed the international "gimme sign" I gave them each a silly band.  As they were admiring their score I said "one dollar."  it took them a minute but then we all had a good chuckle.  Pretty convenient, everything for sale at the wats is one dollar.

Ben has become a lime sorbet fiend.  Jill mumbled something about an ox-cart tomorrow.

you are now entering the 11th century

the wheel is always turning

clare slurps

serious crust

repetition for effect

planning the wat attack

angkor

bootes the herdsman

feb 16th

back in paro

my legs are rubber.  just got back from our 2 day trek.  Spectacular.  Yesterday gained over 3,000 feet in elevation.  slept in an alpine meadow at 11,500 feet.  Had paneer curry, cucumber salad, rice, broccoli with ginger, and finished up with killer bread pudding done on the camp stove with a special bhutanese bain marie maneuver.  Although the hike up was in shirtsleeves, it started snowing around dinner and the wind howled all night.  Forced myself out of the tent to take a leak at 2am and Bootes the Herdsman appeared to me as never before.  His pipe included.  Communed with some yaks this morning before starting on our descent.  We were followed by an auspicious snowstorm which peaked as we arrived at the tiger's nest monastery.  750 steps up and down (2x).  Sometime in the 8th century Lotus Born Buddha rode a flying tiger (his tibetan consort) from Bumthang in the east to these cliffs above paro to subdue some troublesome demons.  Massive waterfall.   Ben and Clare were super troopers.  After 6 months it is funny that they still think that we are going to screw something up royally.  They constantly double check departure times, hotel reservations (or lack thereof), and demand constant updates on itineraries that don't even exist yet.

basket of firewood by the turning wheel on the way down from the Tiger's Nest

first day, ben and Chhimi take a break

ben at lunch on the way up

afternoon, ben on horseback

chhimi's grandmother's house at the start of our trek. it is now the home of an  incarnation of a  buddha

chhimi's father, chhimi and jimmy at lunch 

chortens and prayer flags on the way down to the tiger's nest

the alpine meadow where we camped with chortens, prayer flags, mules and horseman

clare having a buck brannaman moment

clare on her trusty steed on the way up

one of many spectacular places to meditate if you are a monk (who makes a long commitment!) 

family on the way to the tiger's nest

perfect spot for a hot stone bath- it has a great view over the paro valley

lead pony gets to wear a special bridle decoration

another pony looking for his friends on the trail

meditation houses above the meadow where we slept

finally, a good picture of memorial flags!

the mess tent glowing at night

the fire the next morning, snowing lightly, mountains beyond already white  

prayer flags and waterfall next to tiger's nest

the wind blew most of the snow away the night we were there. the next day while we walked down, they got a foot of fresh powder!

snowy trees 

chhimi and clare walking in the falling snow

tiger's nest, 750 steps up and down to get there. do it all again when you leave.

walk to guru's glory

waterfall and snow next to the tiger's nest

we are in crisis...

relaxing in the meadow at 11.5, first day

our friends the yaks